Monday, February 25, 2008

What is Africa?

Again from Mick's blog:

"I expected that Africa would be waiting for me like I’d seen in the ads and documentaries. Mothers with malnutrition bloated babies. Dirt and misery. People crying out for my help. It was not what I found.

Africa is Africa and that is the most important lesson I learned. We are on the same planet but Africa is not, will never be and should never be Australia or anything but Africa. Africa is wonderfully different and that is a good thing.

Part of my prejudice was that I felt sorry for Africans because they weren’t like me. That was even part of what I thought was just a lack of understanding. ‘When I understand them I will be able to relate to them and help them be more like me. To have my life and therefore have the things that I have.’ It was such a naïve way of looking at the world, especially when I considered myself worldly and open minded.

The small part of Africa that I caught a glimpse of was full of life and living. People, families, communities, towns and countries were living. They woke up everyday and got on with life. Most of them without thinking that they wish they were somewhere else with some other life. That is not to say that they don’t wish for a better life, but they don’t wish to be whisked away from this life to another country. They want to have a better life in their village with their family.
Things were certainly different, but things were certainly not doom and gloom. In fact ‘things’ were the primary difference. We (meaning western cultures) have lots of shiny, expensive, convenient things to support our shiny, expensive, inconvenient lives. In Tanzania they had what they needed, or a bit less or a bit more. Some people had some things that they wanted, like a radio or family TV, or they may have wanted them, but lived without them."

Donated clothes, do they really help?

From the journal of an Australian who travelled around the world and was a volunteer in Africa:

..."My understanding of what actually happens is that the shirts arrive by the container load and are given to the government at the port. The government has no means to distribute them, so they sell them bulk to local merchants for next to nothing. The merchants then distribute them to markets around the country, mark up the price and sell them to Africans. A free shirt at port ends up being about 1,500 shillings at the market, which is about $1.50US. This doesn’t look so bad. In the end a local person can get a good quality shirt, with a whacky print on the front, about an average days work.

The impact that this story doesn’t tell is that Tanzania used to have quite a good textiles industry. Globally it is an industry with high competition, high volume and low margins. Tanzania found it difficult to compete with next to free second hand clothes, and then impossible to compete when cheap Asian textiles hit the market. I was stunned by this, and equally stunned when I bought a bright purple Kanga for my mum in the local market and it had a sticker on it saying that it was made in India. I just couldn’t believe that a traditional African fabric with Swahili quotes on it, gets imported."

It is really shoking, if to think about it. That means that thousands of people who donate clothes are actually not helping, but creating more problems in the long run?

Why Africa?

As Allison wrote in her journal:
"1. Even when I’m pissed about things that go on here, and want to hit a wall, something in my day always makes me smile. You know you are in a worthwhile place if even the greatest frustrations don’t deter you from staying there.
2. It’s the perpetual sunshine and warm whether.
3. It’s the smiles and greetings I get everyday from strangers, without fail.
4. It’s the random dogs, and people, that follow me home. Not to hurt me, sometimes not even to say anything, but just to be with me.
5. It’s the undeniable sense of community that holds the country together.
6. It’s the kids whose whole face lights up when you give them a hug.
7. It’s the fact that I feel welcomed, needed, and purposeful here.
8. It’s the positive attitudes and smiles seen among the poorest of the poor.
9. It’s the people who show me life in a different way, and what really matters.
10. It’s the fact that somebody puts ecstasy in my juice cup everyday. "

One more idea

How a person from another country can fit in - how to accept traditions that you feel are totally shocking and uncivilized?

Taken from an article wrote by kwilla
"Со своим уставом в чужой монастырь не пойдешь, и эта пословица как нельзя лучше применима к условиям африканской больницы. Правило номер один - нельзя возмущаться по поводу местных традиций, а лучше постараться найти им объяснение. Обрезание девочек, - тема, широко поднятая в мировых СМИ, - здесь входит в число традиций, с которыми официально запрещено бороться. Приходится убеждать себя, что так же, как в развитых странах люди делают пластические операции и верят, что это принесет им счастье, так же и африканки верят, и не безосновательно, что без обрезания их дочери не смогут выйти замуж и станут изгоями в обществе. И только предоставив образование, работу и независимость этим женщинам, можно добиться отмены подобных жестоких традиций. Как бы тяжело не было мне, как врачу, сталкиваться с последствиями женского обрезания, я пытаюсь их понять и оказывать необходимую помощь избегая осуждения.

Другой пример - наследование жен. Поначалу, увидев женщину, которая перешла по наследству деверю, я порывалась возмутиться, как же так - женщину превратили в "вещь", которую передали от одного мужчины к другому! Однако сейчас я понимаю, что это не жертва, а женщина, которую общество защищает от положения брошенной на произвол безработной нищенки с детьми, которых никто, кроме семьи бывшего мужа, не поддержит. В стране, где социальная защита женщин и детей фактически отсутствует, безработная вдова с детьми никому не нужна и обречена на голодание, а законы племени охраняют ее от этого, пусть и таким непривычным для нас путем.

Было бы большой ошибкой пытаться изменить существующее положение вещей, привнести реалии, которые считаешь правильными с детства. Это не моя страна, и я не должна этого забывать. Любой врач-иностранец для местных - чужак, к нему относятся настороженно, несмотря на все его усилия помочь. И если он пытается улучшить систему коренным образом, то быстро обнаружит, что всему есть предел. Его указания будут слушать, но до определенного момента. Как только его присутствие начинает угрожать благополучию персонала, в нем видят конкурента, вмешивающего не в свои дела, от него постараются избавиться. И не успеет он оглянуться, как обнаружит себя депортируемым из страны в самолете в сопровождении двух полицейских, держащих его под локоток. Я видела подобные примеры и не хотела повторить судьбу пострадавших.

Жизнь иностранца, работающего в чужой стране, циклична и зависит во многом от притока и оттока других иностранцев. Несмотря на хорошие отношения, сближение экспатов с местными жителями не происходит в той же степени, как между самими экспатами. Играет роль как и разный уровень дохода, так и разный менталитет. Бедный африканец никогда не поймет, как можно так транжирить деньги на качественную еду и на поездки по разным странам, тратиться на деревянные скульптуры и картины, и при этом так примитивно одеваться? Как можно не соблюдать и не беречь свои национальные традиции, не верить в африканскую магию, как можно, в конце концов, не ценить семейные узы и не отдавать большую часть заработанного многочисленным родственникам? В это же время приезжий европеец будет до конца жизни удивляться, зачем, если в твоем доме нечего есть, покупать многочисленные шелковые наряды для посещения традиционных церемоний, копить всю жизнь деньги на свадьбу и праздник в честь рождения ребенка, почему надо делить с трудом заработанные деньги с ленивым бездельником-братом только потому, что так велела семья, и как можно с таким изумительным спокойствием, граничащим с равнодушием, относиться к здоровью и образованию своих детей? Но главной загадкой для белого экспата останется вопрос - как можно потратить такое количество "донорских" денег и при этом не достичь абсолютно ничего?
...
После стольких лет международной помощи в Африке ничего по большому счету не изменилось. Гуманитарные организации врываются в африканские страны со своими проектами, пытаясь наладить жизнь африканцев на западный лад. Но пока это не принесло ожидаемых результатов. Африка - это Африка. Это действительно другая планета. Другой мир. Мы их жалеем, и это наша ошибка. Если мы поймем, какие они, как они живут, мы поймем, что они просто другие, они - африканцы, и это не хорошо и не плохо. Это факт. Мы думаем, что можем изменить их жизнь, переделав под "наши" стандарты. А они не хотят других стандартов. Они хотят лучше жить, но так, чтобы при этом ничего в укладе их жизни не изменилось. Зачем нам, белым, техника, новые технологии? Потому что мы без них, как без рук, уже не проживем. А африканцы проживут. Они поприветствуют цивилизацию, но обойдутся и без нее, если так звезды расположатся. А мы, в частности врачи, можем лишь предложить свои знания, свои руки, чтобы помочь вылечить тех, кто в этом нуждается. Мы можем обучить других, не ломая их, оставив после себя команду обученных специалистов, которые смогут продолжить твою работу. И тогда можно будет уехать из Африки с легким сердцем, завоевав уважение и признание, с чувством громадного удовлетворения от проделанной работы и с любовью к Африке. Потому что говорят - однажды увидев Африку, ты обязательно туда вернешься. "

Friday, February 22, 2008

Some ideas for the movie

I have so far few ideas boiling in my head. Still not sure which one would be the best one to persue.

1. Female genital cutting - how widespread it is still, what is done to fight old traditions.
2. What we can learn from Africa - their attitude towards live, what is important, how to be happy
3. Compare/contrast: A person willingly coming to live in Africa and a native Gambian waiting for the day when he can get a visa to run away from there.

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

My oh my, I would love to see such signs with my own eyes. They are like from another world. A world that is so different from ours.

From Mark Moxon website

Flight possibilities

Charterflights.co.uk - really nice offers for 2 people from London.


The only problem is now to find a person who would fly with me :) And a cheap flight from Riga (or Tallinn) to London

Sex tourism in Gambia

From Marco Daprile Travel blog:

"One always hopes that full gender parity will be achieved through the improvement of man, not thanks to the barbarization of woman. That will be the previous to stop thinking with their testicles, not that latter to start hiring whores. Then you arrive in Gambia and discover that 3 tourists out of 4 here are sad, worn out white women accompanied by athletic young black men, thirty years their younger. l’amour?"

I suggest you read the interview that he took from a young Gamian man, Ibrahim, who accompanies tourist women during their vacations.

It's Nice to Be Nice

From Laura Oxenreiter Travel blog
"Daily Life in The Gambia.
My title is one of Gambians' favorite sayings. It's true for them--they're very friendly. Wherever I'm walking to, it's guaranteed that at least 4 adults say "Hah-lo" or "How ah you?" as I walk past. It's too much at first, but now I'm used to it. Some days it gets annoying, but it actually is nice to connect with people, especially the ones I walk past everyday. On the other hand, random guys come up to us and ask us how our holiday is, where we're from, where we're staying, what our name is. It's best to have a made-up name and story ready for those ones.

Now, kids are different. Some will say "Toubab, how ah you?" Toubab=white person. Others just yell, "Toubab!" and if I'm lucky, I'll get just a "Hallo, how ah you?" without the "toubab". If I don't acknowledge the "toubab" screamers, they'll keep yelling, so it works to wave at them. Also, we just learned "Man, duma toubab" in Wollof, which means "Me, I'm not a toubab," which sometimes works if they shut up for long enough to listen, and if they know Wollof."

About common sense and the concept of time

"It’s not that they lack common sense, it’s just that their form of common sense is so totally different to say, the north European interpretation of what’s common sense.
Same thing with the concept of time. It’s just as totally different to mine as it can be. In Europe our concept of time is dictated by efficiency and methods of being so, like fixed timetables. In West Africa these things hardly exist. Many people don’t know when they’re born. Their mother’s might remember if it was before or after the harvest, but have no clue at what year. With seven children it’s hard to keep track on such things, especially since it doesn’t matter to them at all. Take a look in a West African passport and it will most probably say: born on the first of January, then the numbers of a possible year."

Again take from Bobbie Nystrom Travel blog

Insurance, vactination and visa requirements

Visa Requirements: No visas are required to gain entry into Gambia for UK citizens, full members of the EU, ECOWAS members, Commonwealth countries and nations with a reciprocal visa abolition agreement where the visit is not beyond 90 days. Citizens of the US require an entry visa with at least 1 blank page on their passport for the stamp. The above rule applies for visitor on business or vacation. Passport validity should be for at least 6 months.

Insurance from If.lv (Basic) would cost me app. 10 eur

Health information
Required Vaccinations & Immunisations: There are no requirements by the Gambia health or immigration authorities for any pre-departure vaccinations if you are coming to Gambia directly from the UK, EU or USA. Visitors from other countries should check with their local doctor.

Recommended Vaccinations: If you are staying for just a 2 week vacation along the resorts of Kotu, Kololi etc., there is usually no need for any preventative vaccines. However, if you are either staying for an extended period or travelling to any up-country villages and other areas then the following precautionary vaccinations are advised:
1) Hepatitis A; 2) Meningitis; 3) Polio; 4) Tetanus; 5) Typhoid; 6) Yellow fever

A table for tourists from Latvia
And some more information from Traveldoctor.info

Impression from other people

Some words from a person who travelled across all West Africa
Bobbie Nystrom Travel blog

"A region of strong religious belief, poverty and corruption. But also a region of great happiness, striking colours and wonderful music.
...
Still I dare to say that people are more happy here than in the developed world. The individual freedom that I myself hold so high is impossible to obtain, instead they have a very reliable security within the extended family.
...
Human life always goes on and the West Africans are survivors, if there was a nuclear winter on the planet - this region would probably be the best to adapt. Once again; there’s a lot of happiness. A funeral is always a cause for music and celebration, there’s sporadic dancing in the streets to the loud sound-systems that make up a constant part of every day life. Even the way of worshipping is very colourful and jovial. Ok, Islam is just as rigid and stiff as usual, but the Christian masses are more like concerts where every one attends. Theatre, singing, heavy drumming and some hocus pocus by the reverend, followed by dancing, dancing, dancing - creates a magical show to a bystander."
---

That is exactly what I want to focus on in my project: the way people perceive life. How they can be happy with small things, how they value relationships and take life as it is.
Maybe I am wrong, who knows, but I would definitely like to explore life there myself. I feel it can give me some kind of a meaning. A meaning I lack here.

A map and brief info

(Wikitravel.org)
The Gambia is a country in West Africa and is the smallest country on the continent of Africa. It has a short North Atlantic Ocean coastline in the west and is surrounded by Senegal so that it is almost an enclave. The country occupies the navigable length of the Gambia River valley and surrounding hills.

Population - 1,641,564 (July 2006 est.)
Language - English (official), Mandinka, Wolof, Fula, other indigenous vernaculars
Religion - Muslim 90%, Christian 9%, indigenous beliefs 1%

How did it all start

I believe that life is always showing you what your next step should be. Just don't forget to look around and notice small clues.
A lot of things are circulating in my mind. Some of them will never go further then one-night-insomnia-thoughts. However, I do have them all inside my mind and thus they are boiling there for many many years.
Several things I was discussing with myself are:

- What is really important in one's life?
- Why do we do what we do?
- Which path to choose - where you do what you have to do or where you do what you like to do?
- How to follow your own way?

But I think it really started when I first read a parable:

A black man is lying under a banana and sleeping. Sometimes he wakes up, stretches his hand, takes a banana, eats it, rolls over to another side and continues to sleep.
A white man comes to him and asks:
- Why are you lying here doing nothing? You could take a banana and sell it.
- Why?
- You could plant one more tree then.
- Why?
- Then you could have a banana plantation.
- Why?
- You could reap a good harvest, go to a market, sell it and get a lot of money.
- Why?
- You could hire people to work for you. And then you could lie under a tree and rest...
- And what am I doing now?